The First Surf Of Summer

                
    

Surfing has always been something that I’ve wanted to master. Since grade six, I was fixed on riding the waves like all the cool southern California surfer boys were. I grew up on Roxy catalogs with glossy photos of tan, fresh faced, dripping models emerging out of the crystal clear ocean with neon mini surfboards. Part of me wanted that lifestyle.

The problem with surfing was that no one could teach me. I didn’t even start driving until eighteen, and didn’t start making money, let alone enough to rent a surfboard, until like last year. I had tons of guy friends that surfed, but none that I was close enough to give my life to, in their hands, at the unpredictable risk of the open ocean. So I waited.

It wasn’t until a few months ago, when I went to Hawaii with Andrew, that I first decided to just randomly rent a surfboard and go out into the water myself. I don’t exactly know that compelled me to do this, since I wasn’t experienced with surfing at all, and I’m a horrible ocean swimmer. I try to avoid it at all costs. Deep, open water scares me incredibly. But I did it.

I paddled out into the waves with the safety belt of Andrew at the shore, not only being my guide of the ocean- but my only cheerleader. Attempting the baby waves at the shore, I did not know what I was doing. I wiped out on baby waves a million times, but did manage to get up once.

In that moment though, I fell in love.

Suddenly I wasn’t the girl that cared about “getting her hair wet” or making excuses. I wasn’t the girl to lounge in the sun, but the girl to jump into the waves. I wasn’t scared anymore. I had conquered my fear of the ocean. I wanted to be drenched in sun and pounded with saltwater, pushed under the deep, crisp sea and tossed around. I opened my eyes and watched my underwater surroundings spin around me, as If I was in a giant, magical wheel of wet clothes in a dryer.

So this week, I decided why not attempt surfing again with none other than a fellow surfing noob, Jeanine. She had never tried it before, and I figured If I still sucked, she would suck too, and we could suck together and laugh and take cute photos of us after we tried.

We went with two of my guy friends, one of them, Max, who had actually surfed before. He immediately jumped into the ocean with no board, and swam way out to where the professional surfers were. Now if you’re from California, or an area where theres a lot of surfers, you know what I’m talking about. The far area. I’m so glad Max was there though, because If he wasn’t so undoubtedly fearless, I wouldn’t have been as well.

We went out to a spot where the waves were massive, to me at least. Ive seen some surfers do 50 foot swells, but I’m not there yet- and I doubt I’ll ever be. These waves were around 10 feet, which was scary enough. Jeanine and I rode, *eghem* attempted to ride almost every wave that the other surfers went for, and all in all we actually caught about two each. It was freezing though, so we didn’t stay out in the water for more than forty minutes. If it was a hot day, I probably could have been out there for hours.

Oh yeah, I wiped out pretty bad. It turns out (duh) that the bigger waves you go for, the bigger the wipeouts get! I ended up wiping out on a wave and thrown under the ocean. At first It wasn’t bad, like any other wipeout, you tumble under the ocean for a little bit until it settles down and you scramble to grab your board while trying to not think about the slew of ocean life stalking your little body underneath you. This time though, I did not have a moment to recover my board, because before I knew it, my face was sliding hard and fast against the bottom of the ocean while my legs followed in the water. Instantly my face felt like fire, and I approached the open air with the feeling that my whole face was bleeding in tiny little sand tears. I paddled back in to shore with the knowledge that my face had essentially been rug burn. Luckily, only my chin and a few random parts of my legs, arms and feet were bleeding. After blotting the burns, I figured applying saltwater to the area of infection is usually what you do to heal a wound- so I got back in.

Surfing was so much fun. I learned to stop worrying about what lies underneath the ocean when I can’t see it. I learned to go for bigger waves and have bigger thrills. Im certain I’ll be meeting the ocean a lot more this summer, and maybe by the end I’ll even have my own board. Look out Roxy catalogs.

On Me:

Forever 21 Bathing Suit Top and Bottom

Eva Gutowski

YouTube sensation Eva Gutowski (better known as MyLifeAsEva) is a fashion, lifestyle and comedy vlogger with over 3 Million YouTube Subscribers and 5M followers across social media. Each week, Eva shares room-decorating tips, Tumblr-inspired outfits, day-in-the-life videos, and more.

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  • I love surfing too! I learned it when I went to Australia and it was my first time surfing. The waves were so quick and strong that I could barely even walk out into the water to get on my board, but it was an awesome experience. Surfing is truly amazing 🙂

  • Shaheen

    Good for you Eva, glad you’re trying new things 🙂 surfing is something Ive always wanted try if I ever went to L.A. Glad that you’re posting to this blog as well, looking forward to more posts!

  • I love your YouTube so when I heard you had a blog I instantly checked it out! Keep on being Eva!!
    Girl Online xo

  • Love your commentary on what it’s like to surf! You are a really good writer 🙂

  • I love your writing style Eva! So captivating and fun to read. You are blog goals <3
    Hattie // hattiehards.blogspot.co.uk

  • Eva! This was such a wonderful blog post, I really loved the way you described how you felt and I felt I was also there as well. As cliche as this sounds this was really relateable, and I’m really looking forward to your future blog posts!

  • hi Eva!! I’m a really, really big fan of yours and I really enjoy reading your posts!! They’re very interesting and I think you’re a great blogger! 🙂

  • Liva

    Seriusly happy that u overwon your fear! Good job !<3

  • Being a broadcast major I spend all day looking at boring clauses, phrases and everything grammar during class. However, on your website the words come alive and I can read for days. Great posts!

  • evanator_123

    Dont worry about sucking at something Eva! As all good mothers always say Practice makes perfect!

  • Love your blog! Mind checking mine out?
    colorfullychic.weebly.com

  • Nina

    Your lifestyle is the reason why i want to do new things and explore more. No i am not jealous of your lifestyle. Your lifestyle inspires me. Btw so do you 😉 x big big fan!

  • Whitney

    I’m so glad you tried something new and found a new passion! I love your writing style on your blogs. Love ya Eva <3

  • Sarri :]

    Eva I love you blooooogg *-*
    The way you write, it just speaks to me. It’s really capturing and fun to read! And i especially loved this post cus you conquered your fear of the ocean. I wan’t to do that to. Sadly I’m from Sweden, and you can’t really surf here… :3

    • Sarri :]

      Your blogg* ._.

  • Annalise Albonetti

    I wish I could be as fearless as you.

    • #Abbie😃

      Same

  • cat

    your perf and amazing and I wish to meet you some day but I live soooooo far away 🙁

  • lauren elizabeth

    wow that was amazing i would love to surf but i am a horrible swimmer never been to a beach and live pretty far from any but that was awesome you so need to do more posts like this i was so intrigued, love you

  • Love this post!! Surfing’s always something I’ve wanted to try, so maybe one day… 🙂

    http://www.zzandh.com

  • Anouk

    You are a genuinly a really good writer.
    Love it!

  • JeNn-A

    love you eva wish to be you!!!

  • hnhn did you like surfing?

  • #Abbie😃

    Awesome!!!!! I have always wanted to surf but I somehow have that fear that you had!!😀

  • SO well written! Beautiful pictures! I love you Eva!

  • I’m from Australia, but like you never had the chance to surf, but we recently moved to the beach and I have learnt. Sadly I don’t look as good as you with the board, sigh.

    brookessimplicity.wix.com/brookessimplicity

  • Bishmeeta Limbu

    love your post Eva, although I’m scared a little bit but I still wanna try & learn Surfing!!!!

  • christy

    your so brave

  • Madison Wilson

    Wow I love your videos and your blog I’ve always wanted to go surfing but I’m super scared of sharks plus I’m not a great swimmer so not being able to feel underneath me is scary but I’m glad you could overcome your fear your so cool

  • Eira Reina Muledal

    It like you wrote this text for me! You just helped me to get even more secure of the fact that I can one day learn to surf if I just dare! Thank you!

  • Ellie Green

    Hi,
    I think that your videos, your Instagram posts and this blog website is amazing. I saw in one of your videos that you where on a cheer team, I hope to join my cheer team as well because I’m more of a gymnast and dancer but I can surf too.
    I think your amazing, at around 7 or 8 o’clock at night I like to watch your videos because I’m usually not busy at that time and I enjoy watching them. I also do a channel called GreenGymnasticGirlies2016 because me and my friend Mia have the same last name ( Green ) we are both gymnasts, we are girls and we started our channel this year. Love you ❤️

  • Bryan

    Can you make a video about li

  • Hello_Carter

    Why are you so f’in inspirational

  • sounds like fun

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